Italy

Alto Adige Barolo Barbaresco Friuli Le Marche Mt. Etna

Le Marche

Q: What are the main difference between Verdicchio di Matelica vs. Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi?

 While planted in several regions in Italy we look at what makes the two DOC’s most associated with the verdicchio grape unique.

“Verdicchio is arguably Italy’s greatest native white grape variety,” as Ian D’Agata famously wrote in his book “Native Wine Grapes of Italy.”  While this is a highly quotable statement, as with most often repeated quotes it bears repeating because it has merit and Verdicchio deserves the attention.  

A: There are substantial differences between the two regions, namely proximity to the ocean, altitude, climate, soil and size.  

First, we will acknowledge the Verdicchio’s of Matelica are less well known than those of Jesi and we are okay with this.  Both regions are in the Marche with influences of the mountains and ocean. Verdicchio di Matelica is located inland in a North to South running area of the Central Apennines and Castelli di Jesi is located less than 25km from the Ocean.  

The climate between the two is more continental in Matelica vs. marine in Castelli di Jesi and while the precipitation is about equal, the vineyard altitude is higher in Matelica.  Verdicchio will ripen roughly 10 to 14 days later in Matelica. 

The soils naturally are unique as well. Millions of years ago there was a salt lake with a sandy bottom, along with clay and limestone, rich in iron and magnesium. When the lake receded the soils were left with substantial pockets of distinct soil. The age of the soils go back to the Mid Miocene and are carbonate rich.  In Matelica the area has calcareous clay soils whereas in Jesi, as you might expect there is more sandstone, and the soil is lighter with easier drainage.  

While the associations within each soil and climate can lend themselves to generalizations of aromas and flavors, the wines will have interesting degrees of freshness, minerality, citrus, saline and almond.  We like to start out pure and drink Verdicchios which see only stainless steel.  To begin to list food pairings is almost an unfair, as Verdicchio is so versatile: Seafood is a natural match, oysters are a bonus.  

Both DOC’s were established in the late 60’s.  Verdicchio di Matelica has an extra year on Jesi as Matelica was established first.  As far as size we can go back to our acknowledgement at the beginning, Verdicchio di Matelica is 10 times smaller than Castelli di Jesi and it is easy to see how the wines may at first get overlooked. Verdicchio’s versatility is impressive: from sparkling to still to straw wine, its admirable characteristic acidity, is worthy of the great white wines of the world. 

Mt. Etna D.O.C.

Mt. Etna is growing... This growth did not happen over a long period of time nor as far back as 1669 or 1852 - but, in fact most recently. According to the National Institute of Geophysics and Volcanology, Mt. Etna has grown 100 feet since the start of 2021.

Yes you can expect evolution from a mountain which spouts gas and lava that originate inside the earth's crust.  Mt. Etna, the largest active volcano in Europe and home to the Mt. Etna DOC now stands at 3357m = 11,013’.   

The acclaimed wines of Calcaneus have also evolved. Located on the Northeast side and produced at Cantina Calcagno and named after the 2 brothers Gianni & Franco Calcagno who make wine and have grown grapes on Etna, in the village of Passopisciaro for 6 Generations.   Along with an Etna Bianco Ginestra and Romice del Sciare Rosato the 2 contrade they produce are Feudo di Mezzo and Arcuria.  For those who have not had the opportunity to taste these organic, 70-90 year old vine wines from a traditional 90 /10 blend of Nerello Mascalese & Nerello Cappuccio they have aromatics and body more toward the North of Italy and other mountainous regions in Europe. While both wines are vinified in stainless and aged in 20hl botti Feudo di Mezzo is traditionally more red fruit, aromatic nose and concentrated with dark fruit on the palate.  Arcuria opens up with spice and minerality and moves to red fruit.  Due to Arcuria's more sandy soil the wines have less weight and a fine tannic finish.

Hillside vineyards of Etna overcome the many challenges of the 2017 vintage.   While extreme events such as wildfires occurred in parts of Southern Italy and unfortunately, all of Italy was affected by frost, vineyards at higher altitudes were mostly spared. While it was a dry vintage, August had precipitation equal to rainfall averages for past 6 years and temperatures were near normal.  With vineyards at 650m and higher it is the altitude which ensures their success in a vintage like 2017. 

Heritage