Le Marche

Cantine Belisario

Q: What are the main difference between Verdicchio di Matelica vs. Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi?

 While planted in several regions in Italy we look at what makes the two DOC’s most associated with the verdicchio grape unique.

“Verdicchio is arguably Italy’s greatest native white grape variety,” as Ian D’Agata famously wrote in his book “Native Wine Grapes of Italy.”  While this is a highly quotable statement, as with most often repeated quotes it bears repeating because it has merit and Verdicchio deserves the attention.  

A: There are substantial differences between the two regions, namely proximity to the ocean, altitude, climate, soil and size.  

First, we will acknowledge the Verdicchio’s of Matelica are less well known than those of Jesi and we are okay with this.  Both regions are in the Marche with influences of the mountains and ocean. Verdicchio di Matelica is located inland in a North to South running area of the Central Apennines and Castelli di Jesi is located less than 25km from the Ocean.  

The climate between the two is more continental in Matelica vs. marine in Castelli di Jesi and while the precipitation is about equal, the vineyard altitude is higher in Matelica.  Verdicchio will ripen roughly 10 to 14 days later in Matelica. 

The soils naturally are unique as well. Millions of years ago there was a salt lake with a sandy bottom, along with clay and limestone, rich in iron and magnesium. When the lake receded the soils were left with substantial pockets of distinct soil. The age of the soils go back to the Mid Miocene and are carbonate rich.  In Matelica the area has calcareous clay soils whereas in Jesi, as you might expect there is more sandstone, and the soil is lighter with easier drainage.  

While the associations within each soil and climate can lend themselves to generalizations of aromas and flavors, the wines will have interesting degrees of freshness, minerality, citrus, saline and almond.  We like to start out pure and drink Verdicchios which see only stainless steel.  To begin to list food pairings is almost an unfair, as Verdicchio is so versatile: Seafood is a natural match, oysters are a bonus.  

Both DOC’s were established in the late 60’s.  Verdicchio di Matelica has an extra year on Jesi as Matelica was established first.  As far as size we can go back to our acknowledgement at the beginning, Verdicchio di Matelica is 10 times smaller than Castelli di Jesi and it is easy to see how the wines may at first get overlooked. Verdicchio’s versatility is impressive: from sparkling to still to straw wine, its admirable characteristic acidity, is worthy of the great white wines of the world.